Paul Shirville

Elegant, perfectly formed buds of salmonpink. Vigorous, spreading bush. Handsome, dark foliage. Good fragrance. Harkness, 1983.

Characteristics

BLOOM COLOUR Colour may vary depending on growing conditions. Colour fade is a characteristic of some varieties.

REPEAT or ONCE FLOWERING? REPEAT FLOWERING roses flower in flushes from late spring through to early winter. ONCE FLOWERING roses only produce a single flush of blooms lasting 3 to 4 weeks in mid summer

BLOOM SIZE GUIDE Bloom size varies over the life cycle of each bloom. Measurements refer to the average diameter of a bloom at its prime. LARGE BLOOM: 3.5-5″ MEDIUM BLOOM: 2-3.5″ SMALL BLOOM 1-2″

SIZE GUIDE All measurements are approximate ‘height x width’ and refer to a 3 year old established rose, pruned once annually, measured during the first flush of flowers in June.

Ideal For

Growing Conditions

DELIVERY INFORMATION

The following delivery options and charges are applicable to all products sold by David Austin Roses.

Standard Delivery £3.95

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Soil & Compost £10.95

We take great pride in supplying roses of the highest quality. If any roses are damaged on receipt or fail to grow, we will replace them free of charge.

Our roses are grown in England, in our rose fields. We believe that keeping true to our Shropshire roots is the only way to keep our English Roses truly English.

We’re committed to helping you through every stage of growing roses – from selecting the right variety, to helping you give your rose the right care it needs to thrive.

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Rosa Paul Shirville (‘Harqueterwife’ PBR ) (HT)

rose [Paul Shirville] Very free-flowering rose about 90cm tall, with fine, glossy dark green foliage, reddish when young, and shapely, pointed buds opening to sweetly scented, fully double, salmon-pink blooms to 8-9cm wide, repeat-flowering from summer to autumn

Synonyms

Size

Ultimate height

Time to ultimate height

Ultimate spread

Growing conditions

Moisture

pH

Colour & scent

Position

Aspect

East–facing or South–facing or West–facing

Exposure

Hardiness

Hardiness ratings

All ratings refer to the UK growing conditions unless otherwise stated. Minimum temperature ranges (in degrees C) are shown in brackets

• H1a: under glass all year (>15C)
• H1b: can be grown outside in the summer (10 – 15)
• H1c: can be grown outside in the summer (5 – 10)
• H2: tolerant of low temperatures, but not surviving being frozen (1 to 5)
• H3: hardy in coastal and relatively mild parts of the UK (-5 to 1)
• H4: hardy through most of the UK (-10 to -5)
• H5: hardy in most places throughout the UK even in severe winters (-15 to -10)
• H6: hardy in all of UK and northern Europe (-20 to -15)
• H7: hardy in the severest European continental climates ( < -20)

Botanical details

Family Rosaceae Native to the UK No Foliage Deciduous Habit Bushy Potentially harmful Fruit are ornamental – not to be eaten. Wear gloves and other protective equipment when handling Genus

Rosa can be deciduous or semi-evergreen shrubs or scrambling climbers, with usually thorny stems bearing compound pinnate leaves and solitary or clustered flowers. Flowers may be followed by showy red or purple fruits in some varieties.

Horticultural Group Hybrid Tea, or Large-flowered bush roses are upright, thorny shrubs with large, usually glossy leaves and large, double often fragrant flowers that may be solitary or in threes

How to grow

Cultivation

Grow in full sun with fertile, humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil. For best flowering apply a balanced fertiliser and mulch in late winter or early spring and a balanced fertiliser again in early summer – see rose cultivation

Propagation

Propagate by softwood cuttings in early to mid spring, hardwood cuttings in late summer to autumn or by chip budding in summer

Suggested planting locations and garden types

• City and courtyard gardens
• Cottage and informal garden
• Flower borders and beds

Pruning

Pruning group 15 (floribunda and hybrid tea roses)

Pests

Diseases

May be susceptible to rose black spot, rose rust, replant disease, rose dieback, and rose powdery mildew and sometimes honey fungus. May also be susceptible to disorders rose blindness and flower balling

Rosa ( Paul Shirville Rose )

‘Paul Shirville’ is a hybrid tea rose of spreading, shrubby habit producing high-centered, double, scented, rose-pink to salmon-pink flowers with dark reddish green leaves. Also sold in plant nurseries as ‘Harqueterwife’ or ‘Heart Throb’ rose. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Important Info : Also sold in plant nurseries as ‘Harqueterwife’ or ‘Heart Throb’ rose.

Characteristics

Cultivar: Paul Shirville
Family: Rosaceae
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 4 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 2.5 ft.
Plant Category: edibles, ground covers, perennials, shrubs,
Plant Characteristics: edible flowers, spreading,
Foliage Characteristics: deciduous,
Flower Characteristics: double, fragrant, long lasting,
Flower Color: pinks, reds,
Tolerances: deer,

Requirements

Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Mid Fall
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: 3 to 9
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 4.5 to 8
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam
Water Range: Normal to Moist

Plant Care

Planting

How-to : Pruning Flowering Shrubs

It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.

Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers – in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.

Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Cornus alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring: Abelia, Buddleia, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after flower : Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomeles, Corylus, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangeana/stellata, Philadelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigela. Suckering : Kerria

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment.

Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you’ve positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won’t wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.

Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.

How-to : Planting Perennials

Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.

The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant.

To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.

To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.

Glossary : Edibles

An edible is a plant that has a part or all of it that can be safely consumed in some way.

How-to : Getting the Most Out of Cut Flowers

Cut flowers bring the garden into your home. While some cut flowers have a long vase life, most are highly perishable. How cut flowers are treated when you first bring them home can significantly increase how long they last.

The most important thing to consider is getting sufficient water taken up into the cut stem. Insufficient water can result in wilting and short-lived flowers. Bent neck of roses, where the flower head droops, is the result of poor water uptake. To maximize water uptake, first re-cut the stems at an angle so that the vascular system (the “”plumbing”” of the stem) is clear. Next immerse the cut stems in warm water.

Remember when the flower is cut, it is cut off from its food supply. Once water is taken care of, food is the resource that will run out next. The plants stems naturally feed the flowers with sugars. If you add a bit of sugar (1 tsp.) to the vase water, this will help feed the flower stems and extend their vase life.

Bacteria will build up in vase water and eventually clog up the stem so the flower cannot take up water. To prevent this, change the vase water frequently and make a new cut in the stems every few days.

Floral preservatives, available from florists, contain sugars, acids and bacteriacides that can extend cut flower life. These come in small packets and are generally available where cut flowers are sold. If used properly, these can extend the vase life of some cut flowers 2 to 3 times when compared with just plain water in the vase.

How-to : Winter Protection for Roses

F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Plant stems contain numerous buds that will grow and renew a plant when stimulated by pruning. There are three basic types of buds: terminal, lateral and dormant. Terminal buds are at the tips of twigs or branches. They grow to make the branch or twig longer. In some cases they may give rise to a flower. If you cut the tip of a branch and remove the terminal bud, this will encourage the lateral buds to grow into side branches resulting in a thicker, bushier plant. Lateral buds are lower down on the twig and are often at the point of leaf attachment. Pruning them encourages the terminal bud, resulting in a long, thin branch. Dormant buds may remain inactive in the bark or stem and will only grow after the plant is cut back.

Aground cover is any low growing plant that is planted in a mass to cover the ground. Shrubs, vines, perennials, and annuals can all be considered ground covers if they are grouped in this fashion. Ground covers can beautify an area, help reduce soil erosion, and the need to weed.

Fertilize just before new growth begins with a complete fertilizer.

Now is the preferred time to prune this plant.